RSSTriple Treat
Mowich Lake offers trio of superb hikesYakima Herald-Republic
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Hikers can score their own version of horse racing's Triple Crown with a visit to Mowich Lake in Mount Rainier National Park. Three different outstanding hikes beckon from this one location on the northwest side of the park.
Two well-known destinations include Spray Park and Tolmie Peak Lookout. A much lesser-known route leads to remote Knapsack Pass by way of an unmaintained trail. All three boast outstanding views of Washington's highest peak.
On a mid-August visit we spent two nights in Enumclaw in order to complete all three hikes without having to drive back and forth from Yakima. That left about 30 miles of driving one way each day to reach the trailhead, about half of that on gravel road.
Each of the three hikes holds its own flavor and texture, but they all are worthy of a visit. For a description of the routes, here are the major details.
SPRAY PARK
A highly popular trail, this destination features flower-filled meadows and high rock ridges. Days could be spent exploring the numerous basins, ridges, and peaks in this vicinity. Many side trips beckon visitors to Spray Park.
Depending how far you want to venture into the park, the round-trip distance for this hike is six to nine miles. Elevation gain also would vary, starting at 1,000 feet or extending to nearly 2,000 feet. As a rule of thumb, hikers will likely want to extend their distance and elevation to absorb the beauty of this spectacular park area.
As with the other hikes, the starting point is the camping area along Mowich Lake, a primitive campground primarily used by Wonderland Trail backpackers. The trail runs right from the campground and is actually a portion of the Wonderland Trail for the first quarter of a mile. At a junction in the forest, turn left on the tread heading for Spray Park. The right fork is the continuation of the Wonderland Trail which circles Mount Rainier.
The first mile or so of the Spray Park Trail trends downward, but at the base of a talus rock slope the switchbacks start upward. Look for the Eagle Cliff viewpoint to the right side of the trail for an excellent vista of Mount Rainier. Shortly beyond the vista point is a side trail to Eagle's Roost Camp, a tenth of a mile off the route.
Next comes a side trail to Spray Falls with a log bridge crossing a creek and the route leading to limited views of the falls. It is an easy trail except for the last bit that drops to the creekside. Distance is about one-tenth of a mile.
To enjoy the captivating scenery of Spray Park, continue up the main trail which climbs steadily from the turn for Spray Falls. A mile from the turn, the trail enters the lower reaches of Spray Park with a log spanning a small creek and flagstones forming the path through the first meadow area.
Head upward as the route winds through clumps of alpine fir and meadow. On the left is Hessong Rock and then Mount Pleasant. An unofficial trail turns off across the creek to the left and ascends the ridge between.
After about a mile of steady upward tread look for a turn to the left which leads to a vista point over Mist Park and northward to Mother Mountain. In less than a quarter mile the trail reaches its highest point before beginning a long descent. Turn right on a clear trail which follows a high, rocky ridge toward the mountain. Here you enjoy rock gardens with dwarf lupine and brilliant Indian paintbrush. From the crest of this ridge gaze down across Spray Park, taking in the mosaic of mountain tarns, green meadows, snowfields, and bare rock.
TOLMIE PEAK LOOKOUT
Several enticing elements combine on this Mount Rainier hike which also starts at Mowich Lake. Walk near a gorgeous alpine lake, visit a genuine fire lookout tower, and take in expansive views of Mount Rainier on this route.
Total round trip distance is less than 3.5 miles one way and can be shortened further if you start from the north end of Mowich Lake. Elevation gain is about 1,000 feet, much of that in the last mile.
Again, the hike starts out along a portion of the Wonderland Trail following the western shore of Mowich Lake then heading on toward Ipsut Pass in about one mile. However, the route turns left off the Wonderland Trail just before reaching the pass and descends the side of the ridge before starting a climb to lovely Eunice Lake, two miles from Mowich Lake.
Head past the lake and climb up the side of a ridge leading to Tolmie Peak, elevation 5,939 feet at the lookout site. The trail leads through a hillside meadow and then scattered alpine fir before reaching the tower.
The lookout is not manned, but visitors can ascend to the catwalk and peak through the windows of the tower. Occasionally, you may meet a ranger here. The lookout and the lake below offer outstanding vistas of Mount Rainier. Information posted at the lookout indicates up to 200 people a day visit the lake on a summer day.
Knapsack Pass
For a change of pace and an opportunity to escape the crowds typical of Mount Rainier trails, consider the hike to Knapsack Pass. This narrow passage is nestled between Mother Mountain and Fay Peak. It is reached by way of an unmaintained route which also is accessed from Mowich Lake.
Start of the hike is just past the Mowich Lake Ranger Station. At the left of the ranger station, one tenth of a mile around the lake from the campground, is a park service sign indicating the end of maintained trail.
This two-mile route to the high country above Mowich Lake bears little resemblance to the previous two trails described in this column. Although it has obviously seen much use, the tread features mud, roots, rock, and extremely steep sections. Elevation gain is some 1,400 feet to the pass.
After climbing through forest for the first half of a mile, the route reaches an upper bench with partial views down toward Lake Mowich. Several deadfalls on the trail also add to the difficulty.
The trail climbs upward in sudden spurts, crossing a cascading stream just below a picturesque waterfall. Watch for side trails along the route and stick with the main tread leading up near the creek.
From an upper valley you can spot the pass above, clearly marked by two rock features of Mount Fay - one a pillar shape and the other a balanced rock. The trail shoots up the last hillside very steeply before reaching Knapsack Pass at an elevation of about 6,300 feet. The route actually crosses the pass and we understand a loop trip can be accomplished back through Spray Park. At the time of our visit the amount of snow still lingering at these elevations discouraged us from attempting to continue on a route we hadn't previously explored.
So there's your hiking version of a "Triple Crown." Enjoy one or try them all.
* Ron Graham, an elementary school teacher and native of the Yakima Valley, is an avid outdoorsman who has hiked throughout the Pacific Northwest.
If you go
What: Hikes to Spray Park, Tolmie Peak, and Knapsack Pass.
Where: In the northwest portion of Mount Rainier National Park.
How: Drive west from Yakima on Highway 410, continuing over Chinook Pass and through the outskirts of Enumclaw to Buckley where you turn left on Highway 165 South. Drive through Wilkeson and at a major fork in the road stay right. Some 26 miles beyond Wilkeson the road ends at Mowich Lake. Total distance from Yakima is about 145 miles.
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