Tearing crispy, fatty, delicious meat from the bone with your teeth is one of my life’s raw, carnivorous pleasures.

So when I went to Seoul Teri-House earlier this week, I ordered the bul gal bi, Korean barbecue short ribs. It’s one of the house specialties and, at $12.99, tied for the most-expensive dish on the menu. In my mind, I pictured a heaping plate of marinated, grilled meat on the bone, charred at the edges and soft like butter in the middle. And that’s exactly what I got. I tore into it, incisors gnashing, and was lost in meat-based reverie. I think I may have involuntarily snarled.

Meanwhile, the combo plate of spicy sesame chicken and chicken teriyaki called coquettishly from across the table. That plate, a bargain at $8.99, was demure by comparison, or so it seemed. But the spice from the sesame chicken came on like a woman scorned, kicking and screaming at the palate just when you had it figured for a mild-mannered sweetheart. It was delicious.

The teriyaki chicken, well, it was teriyaki chicken. (Whaddya want, you know?) It was tasty enough and a nice counterpart to its more robust partner, the spicy sesame chicken.

My dining companion and I had leftovers from both plates, partly because we started with a nice plate of crispy gyoza — fried pork dumplings — and partly because there was just a lot of food in each of the entrees.

I’ll be back for sure. In fact, every time I’ve been to Seoul Teri-House, formerly 123 Beef Bowl, I’ve said to myself, “You ought to come here more.” It’s just a tiny, unassuming place, so I tend to overlook it. But all the food tastes fresh and sharp. They’ve got lunch and dinner, and a small selection of beer as well as sodas. Most entrees are less than $10.