My family has been going to Antojitos since it opened in its original spot on Lincoln Avenue several years ago. Antojitos was a hole-in-the-wall then — the best kind. Every time we visited, often with friends and towing babies in carriers, the place was overflowing with customers. We waited in the cramped lobby. With babies. That’s how good it was.
And it still is, even though its now located in more spacious digs on Summitview Avenue.
My favorite thing on the menu is the Enchilada Rancheras ($8.29). These enchiladas can be served with cheese and onion, shredded beef or chicken. Since I was once a vegetarian, I’ve had my fill of cheese and onion enchiladas (in fact, El Ranchito has one of my favorites, but that’s another column). But I still order them here — they’re just different than your average ‘lada. Gone is the melted cheese, there are no glops of sauce, nor any oven-browned toppings.
Instead you’ll find Mexican cheese and fresh onions nestled in buttery-soft corn tortillas dipped in red sauce. The cheese is crumbly and similar in texture to feta. The onions are just that, but when paired with the saltiness of the cheese, the combo sings. To add to the crunch, the enchiladas are topped with mounds of cabbage and a bit of oregeno. That tiny herb brings the dish up a notch. And the homemade tortillas pull the whole thing together.
On the side they always serve delicious rice and beans, but the other star of the Antojitos show is its chips and salsa. Recently I joined my parents there for lunch, but was late. The chips were almost gone. I was hysterical until another basket arrived.
The “chips” are whole tortillas, crisped up and served stacked in a basket. The salsas are plentiful — there are at least a half dozen — and you’re free to take as many or as few as you want. They range in color and spicyness, so diner beware: some might be hot. But they are all good.